Gunnera Species, Chilean Gunnera, Chilean Rhubarb, Dinosaur Food, Giant Rhubarb

We are near Discovery Bay, Port Townsend Puget Sound, zones 6 and 7. We have had great luck with this creature. Needs a lot of space, w...Read Moreater and partial shade otherwise the leaves will burn. Needs mulch over the winter when it dies back. We've used it's own leaves to cover it. When we expect a colder winter we have put a large plastic tub over the seed pod and take it up in April. Has worked fine.

Natural habitat is a marshy bog on a hillside in Chile.

Don't plant near a pathway or where kids might play - VERY thorny.

A fantastic plant for the area; always a crowd pleaser! Though the plant is cut down by freezing temperatures with some regularity, it's ...Read Moreactually quite hardy, it resprouted vigorously after our recent 16 degree winter. A little tricky to propagate by division, but doable. I was pleasantly surprised this summer to discover it has spread by seed; I found five little guys growing a few yards away in what is probably a more ideal planting location. Looks like I'll never need to buy any more :)

love this massive plant, but can't grow it here in inland Southern California- just too hot for it. No idea how to tell this species fro...Read Morem Gunnera manicata... seems most who uploaded photos don't either. The photos I uploaded for this one were identified as such by the botanical gardens, but who knows if they know the differences, either. If anyone does, that would be great to add to this site.

Does best in partial shade. Mine is wind protected, under a heavily pruned magnolia tree in a peaty, acid soil with lots of leaf mold an...Read Mored organic matter--no alkaline lawn fertilizers, please. I used this to fill a 4' by 6' planting hole and lined it with impermeable pond lining material. When planting it is vital that the root crown is above the soil level and not allowed to sit in standing water or wet soil, as it will ROT. It can get wet but must be allowed to dry off. The beast needs constant moisture and fertilizing. Miracle-Gro is an ineffectual waste of money, and manure--while traditional--wasn't for me. I found that the best way is to use the Laguna 16-9-12 once-a-year fertilizer pond spikes recommended for aquatic plants like water lilies. They're ventilated plastic tubes with fertilizer crystals that feed for up to a year. I place three around the plant during the growing season and take them out before the first frost. More might be better as the plant grows; since they're time released it shouldn't pose a hazard. Less than $15 buys you three spikes that will last you two growing seasons--nothing to do but refill the bog and enjoy. Before the first frost (Halloween for me) I cut the leaves and stems off cleanly and place them upside down over the root crown. A snap-together 1.5' section of large metal ducting or open-topped barrel section is placed around the crown and filled with leaves for winter insulation that will breathe but not blow away. Replace leaves as needed to keep your plant protected. After the last frost, uncover your beauty, add the spikes and water, and watch it grow! In the past two years my plant has doubled in size with no end in sight. I suppose I should water it more often. Copper tape around the stems controls snail and slug damage. Overhead and underside spraying of the leaves helps to dislodge spit bugs and other insects that suck the juices and cause brown spots. Tobacco water or mild soaps can be quite effective, too. Have fun with this one and don't be afraid! They're a lot of fun and you'll want more than one. Actually it's divided twice already with this regimen, so I already have!